Academia do Cachaca

Flavio, his family and I had dinner at the Academy of Cachaca [Academia da Cachaca]. Not far from their home on the edge of a small shopping center on a tree-lined road by the lagoon sits a gem of a bar/bistro. It is dedicated to cachaca and offers dozens of brands. We tried a few caipirinhas [the passion fruit version won hands down] which are served with or with out "sugar." We chose the sugar-less. Then we went on to the shots of "good" cachaca. It was very much like the old tequila craze or sampling "good" grappa. It is very much like grappa, Dinner was shredded beef on garbanzos with tiny Habanera-like peppers that pack quite a whollop! I called it an early night and crashed for a good 8 hours. My first real sleep in two days. If you are interested in cachaca and caipirinhas check out www.caipirinha.us.

Corcovado

Flavio picked me up out in front of the hotel at noon. We headed out to Santa Teresa, a district of old stately homes, shops, boutiques and restaurants. The circuitous and climbing road passed several favelas along the way. They seem to be regarded as just another part of the city, but another part of the city you want nothing to do with. They are still extremely dangerous and incredibly well armed. Would that our military had their resources. Apparently all the weaponry comes from Paraguay. The police are also so deeply entrenched in the weapons dealing there that they end up trading the favelas weapons that are ultimately used to fight them. Along the wonderful and exciting tram system are very good restaurants and shops. We stopped at Bar do Mineiro to sample their feijoada, a thick stew of black beans and pork with spices. We shared a single order, which we could not finish. It is served with rice, dried manioc powder [farofa], and a strange vegetable/salad green like nothing I have seen, It appears as shredded leaves but that may be its natural state and it has small pod-like growths about the size of a pea. They seem to have been sliced very thin which suggests the shredding. Hot sauce is a must and you wash it all down with ice cold Atlantica Beer which resembles Heineken. We then headed for Corcovado and the Christo Redentor, in the Floresta da Tijuca, the largest urban jungle in the world. It makes Golden Gate Park look like a tiny corner in my unkempt back yard. Some of the most breath-taking panoramas are afforded from this massive platform crowned by Brazil’s equivalent of the Statue of Liberty. In 1931 this 100 foot tall icon was hauled up to the top fo Corcovado [it means "hunchback"]some 2275 feet on and old rack railway built in 1884 [it is still running and the most popular way to get to the top]. The statue is reinforced concrete clad in soapstone and it sits on a 27 foot pedestal. It was designed by Heitor da Silva Costa and Carlos Oswaldo and was created in France overseen by Paul landowski who also scupted the face and hands.

Rio

The flight from SFO to MIA was cramped and uncomfortable. I had an aisle seat but could not put my feet out for all the flight attendants. American Airlines has not cut corners on attendants. MIA to GIG [Rio] was the same, This time I had a bulk head. I remember when that meant more leg room. It was as tight as the early flight but the wall was hard compared to the soft back of the seat in front of me. Advice to all… don’t get tall, don’t get fat, and do get rich [enough to afford business class]. We were fed [twice!] on the MIA>GIG flight which was a surprise for me. It took 8.5 hours and most of that was spent over the Brazilian jungle. This country is huge! Watching the flight path gives you a real sense of it’s size. We landed a little late and waited in a very long line to go through passport control. They let the crew and the infirm jump the line which is understandable but they also permitted families with small children to jump to the front which was kind of charming. When we got to baggage our bags were already out. All out except one. My new hard-body Samsonite with the wine and gifts and toiletries is missing. They were confident that I would get it before the ship leaves and “if not, we will send it to meet you in Bahia.” An airport employee whisked me through customs without a glance at my bags. He acted like he was mortified that they had lost my bag.
I paid up-front for a “radio” taxi to take me to the hotel [80 reals = about $40.] during rush hour. It looked a lot like Havana. Incredibly beautiful 19th century buildings were crumbling from lack of respect. Then we finally made it to Copacabana Beach and my hotel. The Lancaster Othon is from [my guess] the 40s and 50s. It’ a bit shabby but clean and well functioning. I sat out on the beach across the street for an hour or so. Copacabana is only one of several world-class beaches in Rio. It is situated on the south coast of the city. Roberto Burle Marx designed the "wave" mosaic sidewalk that runs the length of the beach. The calcadao [black and white paving stones] are Portuguese in origin. The sidewalks closer to the hotels and other buildings are in more geometric patterns varying from block to block.

MIA - La Carreta

Well, MIA [Miami International Airport] is a piece of work. I have heard tales of no one speaking English; simply not true on any level. There are plenty of people speaking Spanish, many with a distinct Cuban accent, but they all speak English and well. The layout and signage here is an absolute nightmare… And the international flights are interspersed with the domestic which can be a good thing but it can also mean miles and miles of walking without any way to tell if you are going in the right direction. But there are helpful people everywhere so I eventually found my way to La Carreta! Oh, happy day! It is a large cafeteria–style restaurant which is always crowded. You first encounter the deserts… when you are most hungry. The selection is pie-heavy, followed by cheesecakes then regular cakes, tres leches, flan, rice pudding and on an on. The pie crust [probably lard-based is about a quarter inch thick; it makes the pie look like a cheesecake. Among the traditional pie choices I found guava pie… say no more. I write more about the menu later. I have to purchase a WiFi pass to upload this. The menu was extensive with all the regular Cuban fare, ropas viejas, moros y cristianos, platanos [virtually caramelized and decadent]. Next post Rio.

Itinerary

I have had a few requests for my itinerary... here it is.

On 1 Apr. at 3AM I drive to SFO and drop the car at Hertz rental return by 5AM.
I check in at American Airlines by 5:30AM. My flight departs SFO at 7AM and arrives in Miami [MIA] at 3:15PM [no cell phone until MIA]: it takes 5hrs. 15min. I'll have to kill time at MIA before checking in at 7:30PM [cell phone until 8:35]. The flight departs MIA at 8:35PM and arrives at GIG [Rio De Janeiro] the next morning at 6:05 AM. 8hrs. 30mins.

2 Apr. [I collect baggage then go to Customs/Passport Control]. The Othon Shuttle starts running at 8AM [I don’t know if I’ll wait or take a taxi].

2 Apr. I am staying at The Lancaster Othon Travel Hotel – Av. Atlantica, 1470, Copacabana, Rio De Janeiro, Brazil. Check in is at 3PM!!! I hope I can get in earlier.

2 Apr. I will have lunch and go sightseeing with a Brazilian friend and then off to the beach. He will be picking me up at 11:30AM

3 Apr. Sightseeing and Beach.

4 Apr. I pack and take a taxi to Port Maua and board the Rotterdam.
The cruise begins.

5 Apr. At sea.

6 Apr. We arrive at Salvador De Bahia at 9AM. We are ashore from 9AM to 6PM
The cruise continues.

7 Apr. We arrive Maceio at 10AM. we are ashore from 10AM to 7PM. I celebrate 61 years on the planet! Happy Birthday to Rick and Kathy! The cruise contines.

8 Apr. We arrive at Recife at 8AM. we are ashore 8AM to3PM [a short stay]. I hope to visit Olinda. The cruise continues.

9 Apr. to 12 Apr. at sea.

12 Apr. We arrive at Banjul, The Gambia at 10 AM. We are ashore 10AM to 6PM and i will go on a HAL excursion called "Banjul Highlights." The cruise continues.

13 Apr. We arrive at Dakar, Senegal at 8AM. we are ashore 8AM to 7PM. I plan visit the Isle De Goree, the sight of an old slave depot; now a museum. The cruise continues.

14 Apr. at sea.

15 Apr. We arrive at Santa Cruz de Tenerife on Tenerife in the Canary Islands at 12 noon. We are ashore 12 noon to 9PM. I am visiting the pyramids at Guimar. It's a HAL excursion. The cruise continues.

16 Apr. We arrive at Arrecife, Lanzarote in the Canary Islands at 8AM. We are ashore 8AM to 5PM. it's a barren islands so I think I'll just do the beach and shops.

17 Apr. At sea.

18 Apr. We arrive at Casablanca at 6AM. we are ashore 6AM to 7:30 PM.
The extended hours is to accomodate a couple of excursions [to Fez and to Marakesh]that take 8 to 12 hours. I will visit the great Mosque in Casablanca and then take the train to Rabat for the day. The cruise continues.

19 Apr. We arrive Cadiz at 8AM. we are ashore 8AM to 4:30PM.
I will try to visit Sevilla [or Jerez if Sevilla doesn’t work]. The cruise continues.

20 Apr. We arrive in Lisbon at 7AM and disembark around 10AM. I will take a taxi to the Borges Residencial [Hotel] on Rua Garrett 108, Lisboa, Portugal. Check in time is at 2PM.

24 Apr. I check out of Borges Residential at 2PM, then fly from Lisbon to GIG [Rio] arriving at 9:40PM on Air Portugal.

24 Apr. I will taxi to a late arrival at the Aeroporto Othon Travel Hotel in Centro.
Av. Beira-Mar 280, Centro, Rio De Janeiro, Brazil. I have three days with nothing planned save for checking out Lapa, Niteroi [Oscar Niemeyer's wonderful Art Museum]and maybe Buzios.

28 Apr. I depart GIG [Rio] at 8:45PM on American Airlines to Miami arriving at
4:15 AM on 29 Apr. 8hrs. 30mins. I have a 3hr. 35min. layover at MIA [do breakfast].

29 Apr. I depart MIA at 7:50AM on American Airlines to SFO arriving at 10:50AM.

I will catch Airporter to Sonoma around 12 Noon arriving home by 2PM.

Bon Voyages

Perhaps the best part of leaving is the Bon Voyage party, the Bon Voyage dinner, the Bon Voyage breakfast. In one week I have gained back the weight it took me six months to lose. I don't care! It makes me look more formidable so I won't get bothered by the pickpockets and muggers. I think I'll wear a fake Rolex just to test my theory. It's a wonderful "Unintended Consequence." The latest "dust-up" on this trip is the outbreak of Dengue Fever in Rio de Janeiro. They have had quite a few cases of late and the recommendation is to wear long trousers and long sleeve shirts. Of course you can spray on your DEET as well. According to the container you can treat your clothes as well. I picked up an aerosol can and a container of DEET wipes for the face. I'll be there a total of 5 days and I intend to visit the urban jungle, Floresta da Tijuca, and the Botanical Gardens which are supposed to be spectacular. I now have a contact in Rio [a musician] who will show me the sights. That is the best! Well it's 56 hours and counting. The next post will be from Miami.
Ciao!

Traveler's Tip

Recently I was meeting two friends at SFO [San Francisco International Airport] who were returning from a fishing trip in Belize. They checked their bags through to SFO but had a few hours layover in Dallas. Their plane arrived and we waited as the luggage spit out of the conveyor onto the carousel. After several stops and restarts [and over an hour] it became apparent that their luggage was not on that flight. A line was forming at the luggage claim office and as we approached we saw their bags in a cordoned off area. They had made it on an earlier flight. So... if you have a layover and your bags are checked through you may want to do a cursory inspection of the holding area in baggage claim. It may save you some time.